4C
Samsung Washer 4C Error
The washer is not filling with water the way it should. The machine expected the water level to rise within a set time, it didn't, and it stopped the cycle rather than run dry.
Also displayed as: 4E, nF, 4C2 on some models · Easy — no parts · About 20 minutes
The short version: Good news first: 4C is the most fixable washer code there is. The large majority of cases are a tap, a hose, or a clogged inlet screen — nothing inside the machine has to come apart.
STEP 1 Likely causes, in order
Work down this list — it runs from the most common and cheapest to fix, to the least common and most involved.
- A supply tap is partly or fully closedSomeone turned a laundry tap off for another job, or it was never fully opened after the washer was installed. The washer needs both taps wide open.
- Kinked, pinched, or frozen inlet hosesThe washer gets pushed back against the wall and the hoses fold flat. In a Canadian winter, a hose run against an unheated exterior wall can freeze outright.
- Clogged inlet filter screensEach inlet connection hides a small mesh screen. Sediment, sand, and well-water grit build up until almost nothing gets through. This is the single most common cause.
- Water pressure too lowIf the house pressure has dropped — a failing well pump, a partly closed main valve, municipal work on your street — the washer times out waiting to fill.
- Drain hose pushed too far down the standpipeIf the drain hose is jammed deep into the drain, water siphons straight out as fast as it comes in. The machine is filling — and emptying — at the same time.
STEP 2 The safe checks
Power off and water off wherever a step says so. Nothing here opens the machine's cabinet, touches a gas line, or defeats a safety device.
- Stop the cycle and cut the powerCancel the wash, switch the washer off, and unplug it before you start moving hoses around.
- Check both taps are fully openTurn each laundry tap counter-clockwise until it stops. If a tap won't turn or weeps water, that's a plumbing job — don't force it.
- Pull the washer forward and inspect the hosesLook for sharp bends or a hose flattened behind the machine. Straighten any kink and leave a few inches of clearance when you push the washer back.
- Close the taps, disconnect the inlet hoses, and clean the screensWith the taps OFF, unscrew the hoses from the back of the washer (towel ready — they'll drip). Pull the small mesh filters out of the inlet connections with needle-nose pliers, rinse them under a tap until the mesh is clear, push them back in, and reconnect the hoses firmly.
- Confirm the drain hose sits loose, not sealedThe drain hose should hook into the standpipe with an air gap — not pushed deep and taped tight. About 15 cm (6 in) in, with the hook clipped, is right.
- Run an empty rinse cycleOpen both taps, plug in, and run a short empty cycle. If it fills, drains, and finishes with no code, you found it.
Stop here and call a professional if…
- Taps open, hoses straight, screens clean — and 4C still comes back. At that point the water inlet valve or the water-level pressure sensor has likely failed, and both live inside the machine.
- You find water pooling behind or under the washer at any point. Shut the taps off and find the leak before worrying about the code.
- Any check would require opening the washer's cabinet. The five checks above are the whole home list.